Sunscreen·14 min read

What a Derm and Makeup Artist Want You To Know About Sunscreen and Makeup

sunscreens
Design: theSkimm | Photos: Sephora, Kosas
April 25, 2024

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In theory, SPF makeup should be the easiest way to keep your skin safe from the sun. But though swapping your usual foundation for one infused with UV-blocking ingredients may make you *think* you’re properly protected, dermatologists caution that that’s not necessarily the case—which is why wearing sunscreen under makeup is key.

“Often, women do not use enough foundation to get the proper SPF, which is why I usually recommend applying sunscreen before applying makeup, regardless of whether or not there’s SPF in the makeup,” says Jessica Dowling, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “This type of layering can help you avoid any missing areas of skin.”

I know, I know: Adding another step to your already stacked routine probably feels like overkill. But these days, there are so many sunscreens specifically designed to wear right alongside makeup that it’s never been easier—or more enjoyable—to double up. Not only will your skin be adequately shielded from the sun, but it will also look like its best (glowiest) self in the process.

The problem with SPF makeup

“While you can get enough SPF from an SPF foundation, most people do not use the recommended amount of product on their face to obtain the marketed SPF,” says Dr. Dowling. Generally speaking, you need at least “two finger lengths” of product (meaning enough product to draw lines down your index and middle fingers) on your face and neck in order to get the full amount of SPF that’s advertised on the bottle. And chances are, you’re not using nearly that much foundation in your regular application—so even if you’re technically using an SPF 50 foundation, you probably aren’t getting SPF 50 protection.

This holds true regardless of what type of SPF makeup you’re using. “Liquid makeup can be as effective as regular SPF, [but you have to] put enough on,” adds Cybele Fishman, MD, a New York City-based dermatologist. “Powder would need to be caked on thickly for it to provide as good of coverage, but most women wouldn’t want to put it on that heavily.” All this is to say that while SPF makeup is great for upping your protection, it shouldn’t be your only source of defense against the sun.

How much SPF do you need every day?

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends wearing at least SPF 30 every day and re-applying every two hours. The “two finger” rule is an easy way to ensure you’re getting enough product on your face and neck (which equates to about 1/3 to 1/2 a teaspoon of product, or a quarter-sized dollop). One ounce of sunscreen (AKA enough to fill a standard shot glass) should be enough for the rest of your body.

In pursuit of hitting that golden SPF 30 number, it’s important to keep in mind that SPF factors aren’t additive. “If you’re wearing an SPF 30 sunscreen under makeup with SPF 30, you’re not wearing SPF 60,” says Dr. Fishman, so look at whatever product has the highest SPF and go by that number for an accurate idea of how much protection you’ve got at any given moment.

How to layer sunscreen and makeup

Unless you’re caking on a whole bunch of foundation (which, let’s be honest, you’re probably not), sunscreen layering should be a non-negotiable part of your routine. Thankfully, there are a few different ways to do it, and it’s all about finding the method that works for you. The only application edict you should always follow? “Put on your skincare first, since you want the skin-nourishing ingredients closest to your face,” says Dr. Fishman.

Sunscreen under makeup

Most people will choose to put on their sunscreen before their foundation, but the exact application order depends on what type of formula you’re using. If you’re working with a chemical sunscreen—which uses filters like avobenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, and octinoxate to absorb and release UV radiation—you’ll want to put it on before your moisturizer so that it’s in close contact with your skin. In this situation, your application order should be serums, SPF, moisturizer, makeup. “Chemical sunscreen tends to rub into the skin a little easier on average, so I usually recommend a chemical sunscreen as a primer,” says Dr. Dowling.

Unlike chemical SPFs, physical SPFs use mineral “blockers” like zinc oxide and titanium oxide to deflect UV rays. This means these formulas should be the last layer before your makeup. So you’ll want to apply your serums and moisturizer first, then your SPF, then your makeup. “Just make sure all your moisturizer is rubbed in sufficiently before applying the sunscreen,” says Dr. Dowling.

With all of that said, don’t worry too much about whether you’re putting your sunscreen on before or after your moisturizer. While these are technically best practices, Dr. Dowling notes that as long as you’re layering on SPF before you start your makeup, regardless of whether it’s a chemical or mineral formula, you should be good to go for the day.

One last pro tip? Be sure to let your sunscreen sink into your skin for about two minutes before you put anything else on top of it. “You want to make sure the sunscreen feels as if it is absorbed into your skin so you avoid taking any of the sunscreen off or diluting it when applying your makeup,” says Dr. Dowling.

Sunscreen on top of makeup

If you’d prefer to apply sunscreen after your foundation, opt for a powder formula. These types of products (which are almost always made with mineral ingredients) usually contain a bit of a tint, so they’re helpful in absorbing any oil or shine that is lingering on your skin. In addition, powder SPFs usually contain iron oxides, which can help protect the skin against visible light sources that can create problems within the skin.

And if ever you’re reapplying throughout the day (which, you should be!), powders and SPF-infused sprays will allow you to do so without messing up your makeup.

Shop the best SPF to wear under makeup

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EltaMD

This option that doesn't leave a white cast...

SPF: 46 (hybrid)

Highlighted ingredients: Zinc oxide, chemical SPF filters (octinoxate), niacinamide, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid

Dermatologists are constantly recommending this SPF, which works just as well under makeup as it does on its own. Because it combines chemical and physical filters and offers a tint that’s just enough to help offset the white cast that traditional zinc sunscreens often give on skin, it’s a great pick to layer on ahead of your foundation without giving any indication it’s there.

Size: 1.7 oz.

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Highlighted ingredients: Iron oxides, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, lutein, polymer matrix

If you’re in the market for anti-aging sun protection, consider this completely physical sunscreen, which is truly one of the most advanced mineral SPFs around. It contains a potent blend of antioxidants to guard skin from pollution as well as iron oxides to protect from visible light sources inside and blue light from your computer. This is particularly helpful for those with mature skin, as it works overtime to defend against visible signs of skin aging.

Size: 1.7 oz.

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This sunscreen that also acts as a primer and moisturizer...

SPF: 30 (mineral)

Highlighted ingredients: Zinc oxide, desert rose, jasmine

Create the perfect canvas to apply your makeup on top of with this pore-blurring sunscreen. The zinc oxide in the formula delivers a matte finish, and the peachy tint blends seamlessly into any skin tone. It contains oil-reducing jasmine and hydration-enhancing desert rose to keep your skin balanced and prevent it from getting slick throughout the day.

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This lightweight sunscreen that provides rapid hydration...

SPF: 50 (mineral)

Highlighted ingredients: Zinc oxide, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, silk extract

If you’ve got sensitive skin, mineral SPF formulas are your best bet for avoiding irritation. This one, from Tatcha, really does go on as silky-smooth as its name promises while also hydrating skin, evening discoloration, and looking totally invisible.

Size: 1.7 oz.

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This easy-to-use sunscreen that melts right into your skin...

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Highlighted ingredients: Titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chemical SPF filters (avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene), niacinamide, spirulina maxima extract, sodium hyaluronate

This SPF 30 primer sits beautifully under your makeup and gives skin a lit-from-within radiance thanks to pearlescent, light-smattering microspheres. It’s also got hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to hydrate skin and even out discoloration while you wear it.

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This sunscreen that's silicone-free...

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Highlighted ingredients: Non-nano zinc oxide, ceramides, peptides, hyaluronic acid, allantoin

If you’re a die-hard bronzing drops user, consider swapping your usual formula for this SPF-infused option. The zinc oxide in the formula creates a physical UV barrier on the skin, but instead of leaving a white cast (the way mineral SPFs often do), it gives skin a fresh-off-the-beach finish. Plus, with a slew of skin-friendly ingredients—including strengthening ceramides, plumping peptides, hydrating hyaluronic acid, and soothing allantoin—this is the complexion gift that keeps on giving.

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Sumemr Fridays

This option that will make your skin feel so soft...

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Highlighted ingredients: Zinc oxide, squalane, antioxidant complex (vitamin E and ethyl ferulate)

This milky SPF serum is just as much skincare as it is sunscreen, and won’t pill under makeup. It’s got a gorgeous liquid texture, and comes packed with an antioxidant complex that makes its sun-protective properties even more powerful as well as squalane to keep skin hydrated (but never greasy).

Size: 1.7 oz.

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Target

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This 100-percent mineral sunscreen works on all skin types (including sensitive), is packed with antioxidants, and leaves behind a subtle shimmer that makes skin look extra dewy under foundation. It delivers a triple threat of protection against the sun, pollution, and blue light, and at $27 a pop, is worth a spot in your daily routine.

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This CC cream has a whopping SPF 50 in it, which means layering it on top of your usual sunscreen will give you a hefty dose of protection. It’s the number-one selling CC cream in America and works on all skin types (it’s particularly great for mature complexions!), so you can rest assured that it’s a good buy.

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As the first-ever foundation to receive the stamp of approval from the National Eczema Foundation, you can apply this stuff to even the most sensitive skin without having to worry about irritation. It offers light, buildable coverage with a natural finish, giving you SPF 30 protection and an even complexion in one fell swoop.

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“This lightweight foundation works to hydrate and protect the skin while helping to conceal blemishes. It uses chia seed extract and probiotic technology to nourish and soothe the skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD. It promises 12 hours of hydrating wear, and won’t cake or flake no matter how sweaty your skin gets throughout the day.

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Cut out your moisturizer step with this ultra-hydrating skin tint, which checks all the boxes for hydration, sun protection, and a gorgeous finish. It’s super lightweight but packs a heavy punch of active ingredients (namely, hyaluronic acid and argan oil for hydration and licorice root for skin-tone evening), and leaves behind the sort of dewy finish that’s tough to come by in a zinc-infused formula.

Size: 1.3 oz.

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This product works double-duty by soaking up any mid-day shine and also distributing physical SPF onto skin. If you’re wanting full-on protection, make sure to go over your face a couple of times to ensure there’s enough product to keep you guarded from the sun. We give this wand bonus points for iron oxides that help guard skin from visible light, and how handy it comes in when applying SPF to the scalp.

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SPF: 50 (chemical)

Highlighted ingredients: Synchroshield technology, licorice root extract, soy lecithin

A clear stick, like this one, is great to keep in your bag to easily slide over your face for a midday touchup. What makes it stand out is its syncrhoshield technology, which makes the SPF even more effective when it comes in contact with heat and water (so, basically every sweaty day from now through October). It also contains licorice root extract to soothe breakouts and even skin tone, plus soy lecithin to smooth wrinkles. If you like a bit of a dewy finish, you can leave it on its own, or you can powder over it, as well.

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